I had some spare tube left over from the radiator support repair/upgrade, so...
I decided to take a shot ta fabricating a crossmember for the T5, as opposed to searching for one to buy. My time is cheap, and the materials were already paid for. I was originally using a modified crossmember from the old Ford-o-matic. The Ford-o crossmember could be accurately described as "flimsy". The one I made is about fifty times as stout and only weighs about five pounds. It came out ok. The hole for the rear transmission mount isn't drilled yet in this first pic.
I have about a case of Ford blue spray paint, so everything gets a couple coats.
Above is version one.
Below is version two. The e-brake mount is still on the wrong side, (how the heck did I do that again?), but everything will still line up fine. The transmission mount plate was flattened and I hacked out a hole for the speedo cable. But, in the end, I had to run the cable through the frame rail to keep it from binding (pic on bottom).
Later when I switched to the 8" rear with a much lower ratio, I used the reduction adapter that originally was with the S10. I relocated the E-brake hanger when I installed the aluminum driveshaft, as the brake cable wishbone was just a little too close to the spinning shaft.
One thing to note with the T-5 conversions is that the transmission dose not sit up high enough in the tunnel on 1962 and earlier small tunnel Falcons. This results in driveline misalignment, which manifests itself as vibration. The quick and dirty fix is spring perch shims (aka pinion angle shims). This will get the driveline in alignment, but the U-joint angles will be too great for smooth, completely vibration free, operation. The tunnel really needs to be enlarged to raise the transmission up another 2-3 inches.
Alternately, I suppose the engine could somehow be lowered, with fabricated motor mounts and a modified engine crossmember.